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Written by Randy Howland
This section outlines electrical
distribution through the example of what happens when you turn on a light switch
and what elements
you need to make that light bulb light up. The three primary
elements are:
- A power supply. The electrical
company
- A switch and wiring. The components
of our house
- A load or demand. Lights, stereos,
and electric ranges
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When you turn on
a light a supply of electricity from a distant power generation
plant gives us its product. The light switch closes a gate and a
constant flow of electricity is allowed to flow through the
wiring, and a circuit is completed. The switch completes a circuit
(a loop) and makes a complete path for the energy to travel and
illuminate the light bulb In that statement you have the basic
elements needed. 1.) The supply from the generator. This can also
be produced by direct current, for example, from a battery. 2.)
The switch that allows the circuit to be created. The switch is
closed. 3.) The bulb is the demand, or the item that needs the
electricity, and the demand is met by the bulb illuminating.
But how is that electricity made. How is it generated? Electricity
is a basic part of nature. In its basic form, we think of the
lightning bolt. Ben Franklin started the process of experimenting
with, and trying to understand electricity. Remember the drawings
of him flying a kite with a key attached to the string, in a
thunder storm. This culminated with Thomas Edison who gave us the
first full use for electricity with the invention of the electric
light bulb in 1879.
At a power
plant many miles from your house is a generator that gives us our
supply of electrical current. The basics of a generator are a
large rotating magnet and a stationary conductor that is wrapped
with a continuous piece of wire. As the magnet rotates it
creates a small
current of
electrons at each strand of wire. When all the small amounts of
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produced at
each strand of wire wrap are added together, you come up with an
electrical current of considerable size. This total current is
more than one house can use by itself. Depending on the production
capacity of the generator it may supply our neighborhood, our
town, or our county.
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Transformers are
located at telephone
poles, on our
street, that turn or “transform” this large quantity of
electricity into a usable amount for a house. A transformer is
designed to increase or decrease the volts present.
This
electrical energy has to be reduced and controlled to be
usable in our house with our appliances. |
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This
balance for what is used and how it is used or installed in
our houses is determined by the National Electrical Code. The
National Electrical Code is an electrical safety standard
containing rules affecting a products’ installation and the
use of electrical equipment. The NEC provides the formula and
guidelines for our electrical contractor to determine what
size our electrical service will |
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be and how
to properly and safely wire from the panel to the light,
receptacle or switch. The key here is the proper installation of a
system of wiring and control devices to distribute this energy.
This is determined by the type of lights and appliances that are
needed at the house. When properly followed and installed this
electrical system will safely protect the home owner.
When an
electrical contractor is hired for the installation of an
electrical system, his first job is to determine what he is going
to install. General switches and outlets will fall into only one
portion of his installation. He must determine if the house will
have dishwashers, clothes washers, air conditioning systems, or
whole house fans to name just a few. All of these components have
specific wiring needs that when
added together will be used to determine the total “demand” of the
house. This is important in calculating how big our electrical
service, and wire, from the street must be. The electrician will
add together the need of all these electrical appliances and
lights and from there determine the demand for the house, the
electrical service size from the pole, and the electrical panel
size. The minimum (smallest) acceptable service size today is 100
AMPs. (Ampacity is the term for the amount of current carrying
capacity of a wire).
The current
carrying capacity depends on the “area” of the wire. The larger
the wire the larger the current, or AMPs the wire can handle.
Think of AMPs as a pipe: the larger the pipe, the more volume can
be handled. Electricity will come to our house in a three wire
system, called the service entry. Two hot lines of 120 volts a
piece and a neutral. A single “Hot” wire provides 120-volt current
for conventional lights and receptacles. Volts are the force that
the electricity is being pushed through the wire from the original
source of the power plant. When both hot wires are used together,
with the neutral, they can power a 240-volt appliance such as an
oven, electric hot water heater or air conditioner. So when you
hear of a 120/240 volt electrical system this is what is being
referred to: two hot wires with 120 volts a piece, and a neutral.
If your electrical service line comes in overhead from the pole
you can see these three lines as they attach to your house.
Finally, there
are Ohms, or resistance. The wiring in your wall is most commonly
copper. Copper is a good conductor of electricity. Then think of
the metal used in the coils for an electric range burner or oven
element. The metal used in an electric range is not a good
conductor of electricity and the element gets red hot when you
turn on the controls to medium heat. This red glow is because the
electricity passing through the wire is having a tough time. When
you run up a hill you work harder. The same is true with
electricity that is trying to pass through a wire that is not a
good conductor of electricity. The better the metal wire is at
allowing electricity to be conducted, the less “resistance” is.
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Once in
the house the electrical panel is our key distribution or
router source for the houses electrical needs. It takes the
large amount of energy coming in from the street transformer
and makes it usable at an individual location. Our three
service wires from our pole enter the exterior of the house
and are attached at the panel. All homes built today will pass
through or start the individual circuit by connecting to a
circuit breaker. A circuit breaker is a magnetic device that
will “trip” or turn off if it detects a short or overload
condition. The size of our panel, the number of circuits
needed, is again determined by how many electrical devices we
are intending to have. A 100 Amp panel will provide for 24-32
circuits, a 200 AMP panel will provide 32-40 circuits. In our
panel the electricity is conveyed from our service wire to our
circuit breaker by a bus bar. There are two bus bars in an
electrical panel, one for each 120 volt line. They do not
touch each other. Circuit breakers are mounted/fastened to the
bus bar. The circuit breaker controls the amount of current
forced into a circuit. The electricity passes through the
circuit breaker and passes through to our appliance. You can
have single pole or double pole circuit breakers. Single pole
breakers are for 120 volt |
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items like
lights or the refrigerator. Double pole breakers are for items
that require greater amounts of electricity to operate, like
central air conditioner or electric hot water heater. A double
pole breaker is actually two single breakers tied together.
They are connected so they act as a single unit. A double pole
draws its electricity from both bus bars, or 240 volts of
service.
(learn more
about Arc Fault Circuit Breakers; March 2009 Newsletter.) |
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A key item to
remember is that everything must match its intended use. The NEC code
dictates that if you have a circuit breaker panel designed for 200 AMP
use it must be matched with a corresponding service entry wire that is
designed to handle a 200 AMP panel. In the house a 20 Amp circuit is
matched with an appliance or outlet of specific 20 AMP need, and the
wire size is 12 gauge, the size for 20 AMP use. This 20 AMPs is the
maximum amount of electric current that should be drawn through the
wire. Manufacturers determine the electrical need for their appliance,
and the wiring in the wall and the circuit breaker must match these
requirements. The wiring has to be of matching size, because if it is
too small it will overheat and can start a fire in the wall. The
objective is to have the properly sized wire to carry the electrical
current that the appliance or light needs to operate.
We hear of wire
fires in older houses where there may be an insufficient number of
electrical outlets in a room. Adapters and extension cords are used to
make up for this shortfall and they all tie into one receptacle. The
demand is too much energy for the one receptacle to handle and the
wire in the wall overheats and starts a fire. Or fuse systems where
the fuse kept blowing and was eventually replaced with a larger size
fuse than the system was intended to handle. So now the wiring in the
wall is again the weakest part of the system. Remember electricity is
energy and energy is heat. Too much energy in the wrong place can be a
problem.
So, what is a circuit? Electricity is designed to travel in a circle,
or loop. Just like in any circle it starts at one point and finishes
at the same point. Like a necklace with beads but in our case the bead
wire is our conductor and our lights are the beads. It comes in at the
panel and heads towards our light or appliance on our “hot” black wire
of 120 volts, lights a bulb or powers our appliance, then returns
along the neutral wire back to the panel. This complete path is our
circuit. If you’ve heard of Reverse Polarity in an inspection report
it is when the wiring has been crossed and the electricity isn’t
traveling in a loop or circuit. This is also why outlets are designed
to receive plugs in only one way. One prong is bigger than the other
so that the plug can only be put in the receptacle one way, again so
our electricity can only travel in a properly designed loop.
Some specific
circuit specifications are:
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Function |
AMP |
Wire
Size |
Outlets/Circuits |
Volts |
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Lights |
15 |
14
gauge |
10 |
120 |
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Outlets |
15 |
14
gauge |
10 |
120 |
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Kitchen Counter Outlets |
20 |
12
gauge |
4 |
120 |
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Refrigerator |
20 |
12
gauge |
1 |
120 |
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Hot Water Heater |
30 |
10
gauge (3) |
1 |
240 |
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Clothes Dryer |
30 |
10
gauge (3) |
1 |
240 |
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Electric Range |
50 |
8 gauge
(3) |
1 |
240 |
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The key to an electrical installation is that everything matches in
size properly, as per the manufacturer’s requirements, and the
electrical code, and that the electrical code was properly used as to
the installation of the electrical system.
With this article I hope you can understand the basics of how
electrical wiring should be installed. When you here at an inspection
that the wire size was found to be incorrect or that reverse polarity
was mentioned, you should have a better understanding of what that
means.
One of the single largest safety issues within homes constructed 50 or
more years ago is the quality of the original wiring
(for more information on Residential Electrical Wiring, review our
May,
June, and
July 2009 newsletters). It is estimated
that 50 percent of the wiring systems installed in these houses may
not be keeping up with the increased demands placed on them. Just
think of the number of electrical devices or modern conveniences
invented in the last 30 years. The protective insulator will degrade
with time. Heat, light and temperature can affect insulators, with
oxidation and temperatures affecting the wiring itself.
Fuse panels are
a portion the residential electrical system that is no longer
considered safe. As we increase the number of electrical devices used
in our homes over the years, we put a greater stress on the in wall
wiring and electrical service panels. A common part of inspections in
Fairfield County is fuse panels where the size of the fuse has been
increased beyond its designed AMP requirements.
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AMP or Ampere:
A measure of electrical current flow. |
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Appliance: A
non-lighting item. A device that consumes electricity (by its
Resistance). |
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Arcing:
Electrical current passing across the gap, or space (through air)
between two pieces of electrical wiring. Arcing uses the air
itself like it is a piece of wire to conduct electricity.
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Armored Cable:
A type of electrical wiring that uses a stainless steel or
galvanized strip that is wound around the electrical conductors
(wires). The wiring is protected from damage by this exterior
metal shell. |
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Arc-Fault Circuit
Interrupter (AFCI): A circuit breaker that provides protection
from fires that are caused by arcing, (see Arcing). An AFCI
breaker is required at any bedroom circuit installed since 2002,
and most rooms since 2008.
(learn more
about Arc Fault Circuit Breakers; March 2009 Newsletter.) |
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Breaker or Circuit
Breaker: An automatic safety device that shuts off the
electrical power when the current (or amount of electricity or
heat) becomes a greater volume of electricity than the breaker is
designed to handle. |
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Busbar: A piece
of rigid metal found in an electrical panel. A busbar distributes
electricity from the service entry cable to the various circuits
by means of their connection to the busbar. There are two busbars
in the standard residential electrical panel. |
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Circuit: The
path (usually a wire) through which current flows between an
electrical energy source and an electrical device, appliance or
fixture. |
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Conductor: A
material that offers a low resistance to an electric current
flowing through it. Also, the wire used in the home’s electrical
system as in the grounding conductor, service conductor etc. |
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Conduit: A
metal or plastic pipe through which electrical wires are run.
Conduit protects wires from damage and are usually used in exposed
locations, such as along the outer surface of a exterior house
wall. |
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Current: The
organized flow of electrons (electricity) from one point to
another or the flow (movement) of electricity through an
electrical conductor. The standard unit of measure for electric
current is the ampere (AMP). |
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Double Tap:
When a second circuit is added to a circuit breaker, in the
electrical panel, so additional circuits can be added to the
electrical system. This condition is not allowed, except with
specific breakers that are designed to handle more than one
circuit, and only when the circuit is properly wired to handle the
flow (demand) of more than one circuit. |
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Drip Loop (at the
service entrance): Slack in the overhead electrical entrance
wires (at the masthead) which prevents water from running down the
service entrance wires and into the electrical panel. The entry of
water into a service panel can create shorts, or breakers that may
not trip or fault as designed. The entry of water into an
electrical service panel is a very dangerous condition. |
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Fault: A
failure or interruption in an electrical circuit. |
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Fuse: A safety
device found in an electrical service panel designed to interrupt
the flow of electrical current when an overload (too much demand)
is detected. Fuses may be either a cartridge or screw in type.
When the fuse detects an overload, a thin strip of metal inside
the fuse melts and cuts off the flow of electricity, preventing
further problems. |
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Gauge: The
standard, scale or size of measuring for circuit conductors (the
size of the wire). In other words, every end use appliance
requires a predetermined amount of electricity to operate as it
was designed. A clothes washer needs more electricity to operate
than a standard 60 WATT light bulb. The clothes washer needs a
larger size of wire to operate safely than a light bulb would. The
size of a wire (or wire gauge) is determined by what the wire is
sending electricity to, for example a light. |
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Ground Fault (GFI
or GFCI) Outlet: An outlet which has a monitoring device that
will trip (shut off the flow of electricity) when a dangerous
condition is detected. |
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| Locations for
GFCIs and when first required: |
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| 1968 - Swimming
Pools Underwater Lighting |
1987- Receptacles
w/in 6’ of kitchen sink |
| 1971 - Receptacles
near Swimming Pools |
1990 -Receptacles
in Unfinished Basements |
| 1973 - Exterior
(outdoor) Receptacles |
1993 -Near Wet
Bars Sinks |
| 1975 - Bathroom
Receptacles |
1996 - All Kitchen
Counter Outlets |
| 1978 - Garage
Receptacles |
2005 –Near Laundry
and Utility Sinks |
| 1981 – Whirlpools
and Tubs |
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Grounding: The
process of connecting all home electrical devices, appliances and
wiring, whether intentional or accidental, so that they are
connected to the earth, at the outside of the house. This
interconnected grid means that excess electrical current will seek
and be absorbed by the ground. This is typically done by
connecting the ground wire to the water service entrance, or to a
metal rod buried in the earth. If home electrical systems were not
grounded, errant (wayward) electricity could seek a person
instead, and cause an electrical shock. Ben Franklin proved that
electricity would seek the ground with his kite and key
experiment, in the electrical storm. Ben Franklin is the father of
the lighting rod. |
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Hot: An
electrically charged wire, black or red wire carrying a charge of
120 volts in home circuits. This is the wire that you would get a
shock from. When the circuit breaker is closed, and electrical
current is present. |
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Insulator: A
material that offers a high resistance to an electric current
flowing through it. For in house wiring, an insulator is the
coating on the outside of the wire that protects you from contact
with the electricity being conducted through the wire. |
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Junction Box: A
covered metal or plastic box used to protect wire connections (or
junctions) in an electrical circuit. |
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Knob & Tube Wiring:
Old branch, circuit, wiring using ceramic knobs to secure wire
to surfaces and ceramic tubes to pass wires through framing
members. |
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Mast Head: The
upper part of the metal conduit pipe, at the outside of the house,
above the electric meter, where the electrical service wires from
the street attach to the house. |
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Neutral: The
return conductor (white wire) of a circuit connected ultimately to
the earth to receive flow “back” from a light or appliance.
Contact with neutral wire should not give you a shock. |
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Ohm: The
measure of electrical resistance. (see Resistance). |
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Outlet or
Receptacle: An electrical-connecting device at which a
consumer of electricity (for example , a light) is plugged into
and is now “hard wired.” The light receives electricity, for the
appliance to operate from an outlet. |
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Overload or
Overcurrent: When a larger than intended amount of electrical
current flows through a conductor (wire). This leads to the
generation of too much heat in the electrical system, which can
lead to a fire. Circuit breakers are designed to protect from
overloads. They trip or fault if too much electricity
passes through. |
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Resistance:
Resistance is the measure of how easily electricity passes through
a conductor. It is measured in OHMS. Everything has the ability to
conduct (allow) electricity to pass through it. Some objects allow
electricity to flow (pass through) better than others. The best
conductors of electricity are gold and silver which offer the
least amount of resistance. They conduct electricity very well but
are too expensive to use in our house as wiring. Copper and
aluminum are the next best conductors, which is why the electrical
wiring in our houses is copper. Electric cook tops and
electric strip heaters are designed to slow the flow of
electricity. When you want to boil water, on your electric cooktop,
you set the dial to HIGH and the burner eventually turns red. The
metal in the burner is not the most efficient conductor of
electricity, so the burner glows red hot as electricity is forced
through it. |
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Reverse Polarity:
When the “Hot” conductor and the “Neutral” conductor wiring
are reversely installed. The opposite of how the wires should be
installed. |
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Romex (NM) wiring:
Refers to electrical wiring that is sheathed (or protected) by
a plastic coating that houses the wiring. When you see the letters
“NM” on the exterior plastic casing it refers to a “Non-Metallic”
outer sheathing and not the wire inside. This type of wiring
carries a hot, a neutral, and a ground wire. The name of the
wiring comes from the Rome Wire Co. Romex is a generic term, just
like XEROXing a copy. |
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Service Conductors:
The wires that bring electricity from the street to the house.
The equipment and conductors that provide a connection with the
power generation source (power plant). |
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Service Drop:
When the service conductors (wires), from the street to the house,
are overhead. |
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Service Entrance:
That portion of a home’s electrical system from the utility
pole to the home’s main electrical disconnect. The main electrical
service disconnect is the circuit breaker that turns all of the
house’s electrical power off at one point. |
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Service Lateral:
When the service conductors (wires), from the street to the
house, are underground. |
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Service Panel,
Panel Box, Breaker Box: The large metal box that contains the
individual circuit breakers for the house’s electrical needs. The
electrical panel serves as the central distribution source for a
houses electrical system. The “service panel” receives its power
from the main electrical service conductors, which are supplied
from the electric utility company. A service panel distributes
this electricity to the individual circuits for lights,
dishwashers and clothes dryers. It is very possible to have
additional, smaller, “sub panel(s)” that further distribute
electricity throughout the house. |
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Short or Short
Circuit: The accidental connection between two wire
(conductors). The unintended continuity from a hot wire to
something of different voltage. A short will not trip a breaker if
its path has resistance. |
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Switch: A
device used to interrupt the flow of electrical current to its
intended source. An example would be a light switch that stops
(interrupts) the flow of electricity to the light when the light
is “turned off.” |
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Tapping Before the
Main: Adding an additional electrical service to panels (circuits)
before the house’s main electrical service disconnect switch. This
is not allowed. |
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Two Prong Outlet:
Two prong outlets are connected to wiring that does not
provide a ground wire. The grounding wire is present to protect
you from electric shock. With the older “two prong” outlets, if
something goes wrong with an ungrounded electrical appliance, you
will receive an electric shock. |
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Volt or Voltage:
The electrical pressure (force) from an electrical generation
plant to a house (like a battery to a flashlight). An example of
the volt service supplied to a home today is a 120 volt service,
but most commonly two separate120 volts service lines supplying
the house with a 120/240 volt source. |
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Watt or Wattage:
The rate of electrical energy used by lights or appliances. When
applied to devices, it indicates the maximum watts the device is
designed to deliver or control. |
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Wire: A
bendable metal wire used for conducting electrical current. The
size of the wire can vary and is determined by how much
electricity an appliance needs to operate as the manufacture has
designed. An electric clothes dryer needs more electricity to
operate than an electric light bulb would. The need for more
electricity means that the clothes dryer needs a larger wire to
conduct electricity than an electric light bulb. |
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