In 1652, the first gravity-fed water supply system, in America, was built in Boston. The effectiveness of a system depended on the use of hollowed hemlock pipes as logs, on gravity and the weight of water. Around the year 1700, New York installed a system of wood pipes below the city streets. This system, too, was gravity fed. The wood pipes carried water to street pumps, currently known as hydrants, that was sold to the public.

The modern public water supply and sewer systems require far less maintenance than they did 300 years ago. Today, faucets and toilets work instantaneously, a luxury we usually take for granted.

Generally, people in the Real Estate industry know that public water systems require far less knowledge or involvement on the part of the home owner than a private well or septic system. Many homeowners admit that they do not know that septic systems need regular pumping or that well water can become contaminated.

Residential plumbing systems fall into two categories—supply and waste. When we turn on the faucet or start the dishwasher we are using supply water. The water is being supplied from a certain source. Internal systems of supply pipes bring clean potable water to external faucets for watering flowers or to a shower head for personal use. The type of internal plumbing used for supply purposes is separate and distinct from the waste system. The supply source can either be from the local water company or from a private well.

Note, however, that the moment the supply water touches a dish or the bottom of a sink, it turns to waste water. It is immediately transformed from clean to septic. It goes from a plumbing system that is pushed through copper or plastic pipes, under system pressure, to its supply to a waste source, which drains through the force of gravity from the bottom of the bathtub or sink. Like the water supplied for drinking purposes, residential waste water can be expelled either by septic systems or public sewers.

The purpose of this section is to discuss the theory behind the supply and waste systems, rather than their installation. It is also to explain how the individual components of a private well and septic system work.

The service pipe or the house main enters the house through the foundation or the slab. The minimum required measurement for a pipe for publicly supplied water is ¾ inches of interior diameter. The house main line can be larger. It is important for a plumber to determine the appropriate size for the number of supply sources to be installed, as well as the adequate pressure, if multiple outlets are to be used in a house.

City water is usually provided at a pressure of 40-70 pounds per square inch. Lower pressures may require a pump to boost water pressures in the house. Greater than 80 lbs. of pressure requires a pressure regulator to reduce the pounds per square inch to acceptable levels.

Copper is the most commonly used material in publicly supplied water house mains, built since the 1970s. Many older houses may have had their house mains changed from other materials used at the time of construction. However, galvanized, brass and lead mains can still be found in some of them today.

Wells
In the county of Fairfield, Connecticut, most houses in the central part rely on private well systems for their potable or drinking water. Well water is ground water that has filtered down through the soil to the water table level. Rain water soaks into the ground and moves slowly down to an underground water reservoir. The water table may be a few feet or hundreds of feet below the ground/soil surface.

We can determine if harmful bacteria have been filtered out by the soil, by observing how far the water has passed through the soil surfaces. We can also detect if there are any minerals present in the water.

There are two common types of wells of drinking water--shallow and deep. Wells of 25 feet in depth are considered shallow, while wells that measure 25 feet or greater are considered deep. The depth of the water table determines what type and configuration of pumping systems are needed to remove the water from the ground.

If a pump motor is existent in a house, it indicates that the well is less than 75 feet +/-.
The pump motor is called a jet pump. We can compare a jet pump to the placing a straw in a soda can or glass. The jet pump is used to suck the water from the ground as the straw is used to suck the soda from the container.

Another indicator of the depth of well is the number of suction lines that there are on a jet pump. The suction lines serve as the main house water supply lines on a private well system. If the pump has one plastic line coming into it, the well is shallow. If it has two suction lines, the pump is about 40 to 70 feet deep. The dept and location of a pump is important, so that it withstands the atmospheric pressure. The gravity or the atmospheric pressure causes the pump to work harder at pulling the water from the ground.

When the pump is located at the bottom of the well casing, it pushes the water with greater ease. This type of pump, called a submersible pump, pushes the water through the house. The motor and the centrifugal pump are located in the well below the water level in a house. Therefore, the pump is hidden from view.

Whether or not it is a jet pump or a submersible pump, both have a pressure tank and a pressure switch as part of their system. The pressure switch is the on and off button, which detects the pressure on a pump. When we drink water from the faucet at the sink, the pressure in the pump’s lines drop, closes the switch and turns on the pump motor which replaces the water consumed. Another part of the system is a pressure tank. One main purpose of a pressure tank is to pressurize the system, so that it operates automatically. Another, is to properly cycle the pump motor, in order to prevent overheating, as well as to avoid short cycling the motor turning on for too short a period of time. Many people look at the pressure tank and think that it is simply a storage device for water. In actuality, the tank is filled less than half with water. The other half of the tank is filled with pressurized air. Air is compressible and works well with the water in the other half of the tank. We can compare it to blowing up a balloon. The air in the tank must be recharged periodically, to prevent it from being absorbed by the water in the other half of the tank. The common water pressure, as measured at the tank of both types of pumping systems, is approximately 40-60 PSI. The pressure delivered at an outlet, is a direct function of how well the plumber sized, estimated and configured the supply lines of the house. Well Water Potability and Chemical Information

The water entering the structure from the house main, changes to a distribution system to the sinks, tubs and appliances located in the house, regardless of whether it is a private or a public system. In the installation of the supply distribution lines, it is important that the plumber accurately determines the demand in the house’s supply system, to insure that there is not a dramatic drop off in water pressure when multiple outlets or appliances are being utilized.

Water can lose 2 lbs. of pressure for every 10 feet of run, or about 8 PSI, as it rises from the basement to the second floor. Friction on the interior of the pipe lines, the distance that water travels to its sources, and the size of the pipes used, are also important factors in determining proper water pressure. Like the electrician, the plumber should accurately determine demand and distance to an outlet or source, so that an adequate water supply is present. Both professionals need to avoid underestimating their systems.

Whether copper or plastic supply lines are used for residences water distribution lines, their installation is similar. It is critical that pipes are supported with appropriate support hangers. For instance, copper lines should not be supported with steel hangers. Proper support will help avoid water hammering in the pipes. All seams and joints throughout the system are not to show signs of leakage or corrosion. Neither should there be a decrease in water pressure when more than one location is used.

Distribution systems installed in houses prior to the implementation of the Safe Water Drinking Act of 1986, may contain higher-than acceptable levels of lead in the water. The lead found in the water, leaches from the solder, used in the installation of the copper supply lines or from the brass or bronze distribution sources. This happens when water stands in pipes for a long enough period of time.  Read more about Lead in Water.

Other common distribution systems, found in supply plumbing, may involve red or yellow brass or plastic (CPVC) systems. The first is found in many older houses and the latter in many new houses.

Hot Water Heaters
There are numerous varieties of hot water systems, independent or individual, direct fired oil, gas, or electric hot water heaters, to systems that rely on the house hot water boiler to heat the water. Water heating can account for 14-25% of the energy consumed in the home. In order to be financially sound, the consumer would do well to consider the efficiency of the heater and its installation costs, as well as, the price of its purchase.

The most prevalent system is the independent, free standing gas, oil or electric fired hot water heater. These types of systems operate in much the same way. They feature a storage tank and rely on a certain source of heat to warm the water contained in it. The difference arises in the source of the heating fuel they used.

The cost of operation of the system, the recovery rate of the system to heat a new tank of water, and the initial cost of purchase and installation differ according to the type of fuel it uses. These variables may also determine the size of the tank to be purchased. The availability of natural gas in residential locations or the adequacy of the electric service at the residence may also be a factor in the consumer’s choice.

The basic components of a hot water heater are the following: the pressure relief valve, the dip tube, the sacrificial anode, the tank itself and the heat source and its parts. A water heater is a tank, usually made of steel, lined in the inside with glass, porcelain, or cement and wrapped on the outside with insulation. Tanks vary in size and in the quantity of water they hold. Commonly, the amount of water they hold increases by 10 gallon increments.

On the interior heart of the tank, working in partnership with the glass lining, there is that helps prolong the life of the steel. This rod is called a sacrificial anode. The anode’s function is to protect the tank from the electrolytic process that causes steel to rust. Anodes are screwed in from the top of the tank. Some tanks may have two anodes. The anodes are either made of aluminum or magnesium. The warranty on the life of a tank can indicate the number of anodes present. The longer the warranty, the more anodes present. These anodes attract the elements that create rust present in the water. The anodes absorb the elements and, in time, deteriorate. The average life expectancy of a hot water heater is 10-12 years.

In addition, the heating source has a direct relationship to the production and duration of the heater. The heat produced by an oil fired burner is considerably greater, with temperatures in a combustion chamber reaching 700-800 degrees. This constant heating and cooling of the lower portions of the water heater can wear out the metals. Oil fired water heaters may have the fastest recovery, but when the life span and the annual price of service are calculated, they may not be cost effective. An electric hot water heater generates heat at a slower rate. This may extend its life.

Another element of the hot water heater is the dip tube. A plastic tube is inserted at the cold water entry port, at the top of the tank, and extended to the bottom portion of the interior of the tank, to place the cold water entering it at its bottom.

If there is no dip tube, the cold water coming in would immediately exit through the hot water supply line. Our showers would be considerably colder and more refreshing. By it being at the bottom of the tank, the water can be directly warmed by the heating elements.

Water expands and contracts, depending on its temperature. This can be observed when an ice cube shrinks to a lesser volume of water than it was placed in the ice cube tray. Also, we notice this when we place a pressure cooker on the stove. The water/steam inside expands and if not vented properly, it explodes. Likewise, the hot water heating system will explode, if it doesn’t function properly. A relief system is necessary, so that the water in the tank can expand. Such a device is known as a pressure relief valve. Heat sensitive, this part is designed to open when the internal water temperature in the tank is greater than 210 degrees. The exterior portion of this safety device can usually be seen at the side of the tank. The exterior port of the relief valve, the pipe itself, is made of copper or cast iron pipe to protect any person investigating why their hot water heater is having problems. This pipe should be extended to within 24” of the floor so that water being drained from the heater can be more easily contained in a bucket. Click here to learn more about a Pressure Relief Valve in our January 2010 Newsletter.

There are three different heating sources used to heat the water inside a direct fired hot water heater: Oil, gas or electric heat. Oil and gas utilize heating elements that ignite the oil or gas fuel and heat the water in the tank, like a pot on a stove. Electric hot water heaters have two immersion heating elements that extend into the water inside the tank. The water is warmed by circulating in the tank. Oil systems are more expensive, due to the cost of the purchase and the motor of a tank. Gas or propane systems fall in the middle and electric systems are the least expensive to purchase.

Although the direct fired storage tank variety of hot water heaters are the most prevalent, there are also other hot water heating methods. The most commonly used have a coil, which passes through the boiler heating system. Typically, this system, called a tankless coil, has an internal temperature is 180 degrees. The tankless coil is greatly resembles car radiators or baseboard convectors in rooms with hot water heat. Its supply pipe is fitted with fins that conduct the heat from the boiler to the water passing through the pipe. A tankless coil has a lesser capacity to deliver hot water to multiple locations, simultaneously.

Another disadvantage is the potential for large variations in temperature of the water it produces. For this reason, many home owners installed booster tanks to increase their hot water storage capacity. The boiler heats or reheats the water, which is then circulated into a storage tank. The tank is equipped with an aquastat (thermometer) to monitor and control the temperature of the water stored in it. There is also a circulator motor, which moves the water between the tank and the boiler.

Still, another method is an indirect fired hot water heater. This method uses water or a fluid that is heated by the boiler. The hot water or fluid is then circulated through coils in a storage tank. The liquids heat is transferred to the water in the storage tank. As previously mentioned, an aquastat regulates the temperature of the water in the storage tank. When the storage tank hot water falls below a certain level, the circulator activates it. The process begins all over again, until the storage water reaches its required temperature. An indirect fired hot water heater is different from a tankless coil. The first uses heat transference to warm the water in a separate tank and renders not potable. The liquid passing through the boiler of a tank less coil is potable.

INDIRECT HOT WATER HEATER

An additional method of heating water is Tankless or on demand heating.  Click here to learn more about Tankless Hot Water Heaters in our March 2009 Newsletter.

Waste Water
The following is information about water that is no longer potable and therefore is considered waste water.
When clean, potable water is not utilized, it should be disposed in a safe manner. It is necessary for a drain, waste, and venting system to be present in all piping that carries water and waste from the house’s fixtures to a public or private septic system. Discharge pipes in a drain system are called drain pipes. Drain pipes that carry waste water, which does not include solids, are called waste pipes. Pipes that carry waste from toilets, solids and papers, are called soil pipes.

A waste drain system relies on a mixture of gravity force and air to move waste and water from a fixture to the sewer or septic system. Each plumbing fixture at a house (toilet, sink, shower, floor drain) relies on the same, basic, components to move waste to the disposal system. First of all, it is necessary to have properly sized and pitched pipes. The size of the pipes is directly proportional to the quantity and type of waste to be removed. For instance, the required waste lines of bathroom sinks are 1 ½”, toilets a 3 to 4’ and a clothes washers a 2”, respectively. If the drain from one sink connects with the drain of another fixture, there needs to be an increase in waste lines, to enable the drains to dispose of additional volume of waste.

WASTE DRAIN PLUMBING

Air and gravity, combined with the proper pitch of pipes, allow waste to move freely downwards. To illustrate how this functions, we can use the Ketchup bottle analogy. The ketchup will flow freely out of the bottle, only if there is a hole filled with air inside. In the same way, waste will flow freely out of the pipes when our systems are properly balanced.

Air is introduced to a waste drain system through a vent pipe, which protrudes out of roof of the house. When looking at a house from the outside, we can tell where the kitchen and bathroom/s are located by the roof vent pipe. The vent system allows air to be pushed out of the way, ahead of the waste, as it proceeds down the pipes. The vent system is important, for it prevents an airlock or blockage in the pipes. It also allows the reintroduction of air in the system after the waste has passed. In addition, it allows the venting of the sewer gases into the atmosphere, far away from windows and human contact. When air is in short supply, fixtures drain more slowly. Toilets may need several flushes to clear the bowl.

The pitch or the angle of the pipes is also important. Too little a slope will not allow the waste to drain properly. Conversely, too much of a pitch may cause the waste to run down the pipes and break the seal at the traps.

The purpose of a trap is to prevent sewer gases from entering the house. Every plumbing fixture in a house must be provided with a water seal trap. The trap of a sink or tub is shaped like a “P”, so that a seal or liquid barrier can be provided at the bottom. Improper pitch, lack of venting or the wrong type of trap may cause odors to enter the house.

Another important plumbing element is a sufficient quantity of access points or pipe cleanouts. These are necessary in the event of a blockage, so that the blockage can be disintegrated or removed. Cleanouts are located at the house end of any waste drain line as it changes angle.

In the County of Fairfield, Connecticut, wide varieties of materials are, or have been, used in waste drain piping. Cast Iron, galvanized steel, and lead can be found in houses built before 1960 and copper in waste lines installed in the 1950s and early 1960s. It is common to see system portions or entire systems replaced because of age, rust corrosion, cracks or poor drainage. The waste drain pipe of choice, in construction, today is either made of a rigid plastic, called ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) or PVC (polyvinyl chloride). These materials are preferred, because of their lower cost and ease of installation. However, there are disadvantages of plastic plumbing. They are: 1) increased chance of freezing and cracking; 2) waste can be heard draining through the pipes when in use. 

Learn more about a Septic System

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